Here’s how you can easily wall-mount your TV at home
There’s something inherently luxurious about the sight of a a wall-mounted TV. Perhaps owing to the residue of our collective TV past—when boxy CRTs were housed in huge wooden speaker cabinets—a wall-mounted set just exemplifies the modern TV experience: sleek, minimal, and tucked out of the way.
Despite the feeling of luxury, however, it really isn’t that hard to wall-mount your own TV at home. Sure, you’ll have to acquire a few tools, but a half-hour or so of work can mean you, too, can bathe in the luxury of a wall-mounted TV. Here’s what you’ll need to mount your TV on the wall at home.
1. What you’ll need
• TV wall mount kit
• Power drill
• Stud finder
• Tape measure
• A friend
• About 30-75 minutes
Basically, you’ll need a stud finder to find studs to attach the wall mount bracket to, a Philips screwdriver to attach the bracket to the rear of the TV, a power drill (ideally) to attach the bracket to the wall, and things like a level, tape measure, and pencil to make the right measurements and ensure the TV hangs flush upon the bracket after it’s been installed.
Oh, you should also make sure you have a TV worth hanging on a wall—we can help with that, too.
2. Selecting a TV wall mount kit
First things first, you’ll want to get a TV wall mount kit. This will typically include the part of the bracket that attaches to the wall, the VESA (standardized) section that attaches to the rear of the TV, and the necessary screws for both tasks. There are a bevy of mounts you can buy online, and other than a few occasional discrepancies, they all function roughly the same.
You’ll notice discrepancies in price from about $20 to closer to $80, and this (usually) has to do with whether the mount is “articulating” or not, meaning whether it allows the TV to swivel, tilt, or move further/closer to the wall it’s mounted on. The cheap Mounting Dream mount listed here, for example, has an easy-to-adjust leveling system but doesn’t allow for articulation, and holds the TV exactly 2.9 inches from the wall.
Getty Images / Mykola Soslukin
TV wall mount kits will vary in price depending on whether or not they articulate, allowing the TV to swivel upon the bracket or move further/closer to the wall.
How the mount holds the TV is also very important to keep in mind when you’re buying a wall mount kit. You’ll want to know where you’re watching your TV from before selecting a mount. If it’s higher than eye level, you’ll want a tilting mount that will angle the TV’s screen down towards your eyes. However, if you’re mounting the TV at eye level, you’ll want to make sure the mount holds the TV flush (non-tilted).
Pro-tip: If you’re mounting in a corner, you may want a different kind of wall bracket, such as this single-mount Echogear TV wall mount kit.
3. Check out those total studs
If the actual TV wall mount is the most important thing you’ll be selecting to ensure the mounting process goes smoothly, getting a decent stud finder is probably the second most important part. Stud finders are notoriously finicky and fickle devices, and the process of tracking down your wall studs is something that takes a little longer than advertised.
Most stud finders have to go through a “calibration” process. They won’t always work when actually over a stud, and may light up/beep to tell you they’ve found one, but it might be a few seconds off.
Most stud finders have a built-in calibration process that you should absolutely follow prior to attempting to locate studs, usually involving holding the power button for a couple of seconds and moving the finder over the wall—here’s the directions for the Zircon brand’s calibration recommended here.
Getty Images / youngvet
Getting a decent stud finder—and using it properly—is probably the second most important job you’ll have to do while wall-mounting your TV.
Once you located your studs—using the included bracket “map” that comes with about 99% of wall mount kits—use a soft-lead pencil to mark the locations on the wall. This is (probably) the easiest step to mess up, but it’s also smooth sailing once you’ve located your studs and attached the bracket via the included screws. That’s why it’s important to make sure your stud finder is calibrated properly to the wall before drilling any holes or making any marks.
The Zircon Studsensor listed here also includes wire warning detection, which will save you a lot of headaches once you’ve mounted the TV and are onto the running-wires-through-the-wall part.
Pro-tip: If your wall paint isn’t smooth—say it’s spackled or pocked/popcorned—lay a thin piece of cardboard between the stud finder and the wall. It’ll smooth out the finding process without interrupting the finder’s magnetic location functions.
4. Level up your marks
Once you’ve used the mount map and stud finder to mark the drilling location for the wall studs, use a leveling tool to ensure that the studs/pencil marks are absolutely level—or as close as possible. While 100% accuracy isn’t absolutely required—most wall mount brackets have wide enough mounting holes that you’ll be able to make micro adjustments and re-check with the level before finalizing the drilling—you still want to start from as accurate a point as possible.
While you can use a standard tape measure for this process, a combination laser level/tape measure can be gotten for pretty cheap if you don’t already have something up to the task, and it’ll ensure you’re getting the bracket as level as possible.
5. Measure twice, drill once
Once you’re absolutely sure your studs are set and you’ve got your drill markings leveled up, it’s time to start drilling. The TV wall mount kit will include the correct size screws to attach the wall side of the full bracket to the wall (there will also be a section you attach to your TV). Use the drill to make guide holes at the pencil marks (which you double- and triple-checked were level, right?).
Once you’ve got guide holes, have a friend hold up the bracket—check that it’s level yet again, just in case—and attack the wall-mount bracket using the screws included in the kit. Before moving on to attaching the TV part of the bracket to the back of the TV, check the level of the bracket one last time.
Pro-tip: Drill the screws half-way into the wall and check that the bracket is level before screwing them all the way in.
Getty Images / Naypong
Your TV wall mount bracket will typically have two sections: the rear of the bracket that is attached to the wall, and the “removable” sections that attach to the back of the TV.
Using a Philips screwdriver, attach the TV-side of the mounting bracket (sometimes an “X” shape, sometimes two separate “hanger” pieces, depending on your wall mount kit) to the rear of the TV, which will almost always be in 100-millimeter measurements (400×400 being most common).
Once the “TV” half of the mounting bracket (often called the mounting plate) is attached to the rear of the TV, have a friend help you lift, position, and hang the TV. Depending on whether your rear ports are horizontally or vertically inclined, you may want to go ahead and plug in devices like game consoles, DVD players, your cable box, and the power cord before hanging the TV onto the mount.
6. Fit and finish
Once the TV is on the wall, you may be tempted to go ahead and hide the power and AV cables via a cord cover—nothing looks worse than leaving them hanging from the bottom of the TV, but running them through the wall is a complicated and heavily regulated electrical process that you’ll have to seek advice elsewhere for.
Pro-tip: Buy longer HDMI, optical, and 3.5mm audio auxiliary cables than you think you’ll need.
However, I strongly recommend belaying your disgust over the hanging cables long enough to sit and watch the TV for an afternoon or evening, before going through the process and hiding the cabling in concealers. Make sure it’s in the right spot, is level, and isn’t being interrupted by errant ambient lighting or windows you weren’t anticipating. While you likely won’t want to take the bracket off the wall again, you can always make small adjustments.
And if you really can’t stand the finished result for whatever reason, you’ll be glad you didn’t go ahead and hide the cables away only to have to re-run them once you’ve adjusted the TV.
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Prices were accurate at the time this article was published but may change over time.
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Clear out the clutter
Start by preparing a checklist and make sure you have all the necessary supplies. Use storage bins and a label maker to make sorting and organizing easier. Prepare extra boxes for donations and trash bags for the things you no longer need. Look for decorative boxes & baskets that will compliment your home’s décor and use them to organize. You can also use closet organizers and storage drawers anywhere they are needed.
Start with the basics
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How to build a TV into the wall if the repair has already been made?
If you want to install a waterproof TV in the bathroom or embed the TV in the wall of the living room, but the repair has already been done, do not be upset. You can make a neat installation after repair, subject to several conditions.
The most important condition is the ability to connect the TV to the power supply. If there is access to the electrical network near the chosen place or behind the wall, then the TV can be installed.
The ability to run an antenna cable to the intended installation site is important, but it is not necessary for modern Smart TVs, since you can watch on-air channels through applications by connecting to a Wi-Fi network wirelessly.
- Carefully study the drawing of the installation box that comes with the TV. You can also familiarize yourself with this drawing BEFORE purchasing a built-in waterproof TV by going to the “DOCUMENTATION” tab in the product card.
- The next step is to assemble the box. Before marking the dimensions for drinking on the wall, it is better to assemble the box and double-check the parameters by attaching it to the installation site.
- Mark out on the wall. Use a laser or regular level and mark the exact boundaries of the future niche for the TV on the wall. It is necessary to mark the wall according to the size of the box plus 2 mm: 1 mm on each side so that the mounting box enters the hole without effort and kinks. After marking, cover the furniture, walls and floor with construction film. We recommend that you additionally protect the plumbing and flooring in the room from accidental drops of tools or large fragments of tiles.
- If you are installing a built-in TV in a bathroom with tiles already installed, you must remove them within the marked boundaries. The tile can be cut with a diamond disc of an angle grinder (angle grinder, angle grinder) or a renovator (MFI) with a special nozzle.
- Now you need to deepen the hole for the installation box. Different tools can be used depending on the material of the wall. As a rule, the TV is installed in a wall made of aerated concrete, which is easily cut by MFI, you can also use a puncher with a round crown or a wall chaser. The depth of cut must not be less than the depth of the installation box.
- Lead out the wires and make niches for interfaces and attachments, if necessary.
- The next step is to install the box. If the hole is too deep, you can level the back wall with plaster. The box must be fixed on the sides, but if you install a large diagonal of the TV, then it would be appropriate to fix it to the back wall.
- The TV can now be installed. For damp rooms, it is important to lubricate the rear edge of the device with sealant so that moisture does not enter the niche. The TV connectors are protected by a special cover, but it is better to use a sealant to avoid water accumulation in the niche.
You will need 3 basic box sizes:
For clarity, we have highlighted the required dimensions in red blocks on the Ultra HD (4K) drawing of the LED TV in the AVS430SM (Magic Mirror) mirror.
To these dimensions it is necessary to add 2 mm each so that the box passes through the opening.
After looking at the drawing of the device itself, you can think over in advance the installation location of the built-in TV and choose the maximum diagonal that fits in size for the space you have chosen.
Only after making cuts around the entire perimeter, you can beat off the tile at the installation site of the TV, so as not to chip anything extra. Before chipping the tile, make sure that the cut is deep enough, i.e. made to a depth slightly greater than the thickness of the tiles.
After the cuts, pieces of concrete or foam block can be chipped off with a perforator or an ordinary chisel.
Now the installation hole must be aligned so that there are no distortions of the box.
Below you can watch a video with the installation of AVEL built-in waterproof TVs for bathrooms, kitchens, living rooms and other rooms.
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How to hang a TV on the wall
How to hang a TV on the wall
How to hang the TV on the wall
Having bought a TV, many people think about hanging it on the wall. This installation method is available subject to the availability of reliable wall material and the necessary tools. On a brick or concrete surface, installation of any models is allowed. A TV weighing up to 15 kg can be fixed to a plasterboard wall using special fasteners. Installing a TV weighing more than 15 kg provides for the preliminary arrangement of a niche or the use of a metal profile.
To hang your TV on the wall, you will need a wall bracket. It comes in 3 types. Fixed provides for a fixed mount that fits snugly against the wall. The inclined bracket resembles a fixed one, but differs in the presence of adjustable supports in the design. They can be tilted to the desired degree. The swivel arm has 1 or 2 rails. They allow you to move the TV in a horizontal plane. Less common are combined brackets that allow you to change the angle of inclination and move the screen to the right or left.
Installing the TV on the bracket begins with choosing a suitable location. No less important is the height. Because LCDs have some special features, they must be mounted at eye level. Thus, you can ensure maximum comfort while viewing. The hanging height depends on the furniture used. In this case, the middle part of the screen should be at eye level. The optimal value is 100-120 cm.
Hanging the TV on the bracket on the wall should provide for the possibility of placing the screen next to the outlet. Under this condition, you can hide the wires without any problems. Experts recommend installing the television case in such a way that it is on the same horizontal line with the position of the eyes. So you can see the picture on the LCD screen in full from anywhere in the room.
Hanging a TV on the wall begins with choosing the right bracket. Fixed mounts are considered the cheapest and most inexpensive. They are available in the form of a conventional mounting plate and allow you to install the screen 10-20 cm from the wall. Rigid fasteners do not have an adjustment function, so experts recommend hanging the panel at head level. The main advantages of such fasteners are affordable price, ease of installation and safety.
It is allowed to install the TV on a bracket that allows you to change the angle of the TV. The distance from the wall to such fasteners is no more than 15 cm. The angles of inclination may be different for different brackets, however, they are mainly in the range of 10-25 degrees. The main advantages of this installation option are the simplicity of design and affordable price.
It is possible to hang the TV on a bracket that allows the screen to be rotated. This mount allows you to move, tilt and rotate the monitor as it will be convenient for the audience. Despite the high cost of this fastener, it is worth it. Its main advantages include ease of use and attractive appearance.
Installing the TV on the bracket: step by step instructions
Choosing a place to install is the next step after choosing a mount. It is important to clarify what material the walls are made of.