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LRP14GE | Gas/Electric Packaged Unit

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All packaged-units

Packaged Gas/Electric Unit


Compact packaged unit for virtually any installation




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Features







A smart choice for comfort and efficiency

With efficiencies of up to 81% AFUE and 14.00 SEER, equivalent to 13.40 SEER2, the LRP14GE can deliver significant energy savings. In fact, it can help cut your energy bills by several hundred dollars per year.

Sound engineering throughout

Sound engineering throughout


An internally mounted fan helps reduce
vibrations and keep operating sounds at a minimum. It also makes the units
easier to service.

Ready for all kinds of weather


The LRP14GE gives you the best of both worlds:
gas heating when it’s cold outside and electric cooling when it’s hot. That means you can stay perfectly comfortable
all year long.

Compact design that looks great next to your home

The LRP14GE has
a compact footprint that allows quick installation and integrates cleanly with your
outdoor environment.

Every component is built to last

Every component is built to last

A scroll compressor at the heart of the LRP14GE allows smooth, reliable and energy-efficient operation. A steel louver guard helps keep the LRP14GE running at peak efficiency, while also offering protection from the elements.








Ratings & Reviews

See what other customers are saying about
LRP14GE Packaged Gas/Electric

5/5

July 08, 2023

5/5

June 22, 2023

5/5

June 15, 2023

Read More Reviews

Read Reviews

Get answers from a Lennox

® Dealer.

It’s easy to find an expert Lennox Dealer who can help you make the most of your HVAC system.

View Now

Get the answers you need from your preferred dealer:

AZ Air Cond & Heating

Go to my Dealer’s Page


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Resources


  • LRP14GE Package Unit Product Literature


California Only


This weatherized furnace does
not meet the South Coast Air Quality Management District (SCAQMD) Rule 1111 NOx emission limit
(14 ng/J) and cannot be installed in the SCAQMD.


If installed in San Joaquin Valley Air Pollution Control District (SJVAPCD) only: This weatherized furnace does not meet the SJVAPCD Rule
4905 NOx emission limit (14 ng/J), and thus is subject to a mitigation fee of up to $450.

Lennox LRP16GE Packaged Unit

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All packaged-units

Packaged Gas/Electric Unit


Compact high-efficiency packaged unit for residential installations




Current owner?

Register your product here





Features







We have higher standards. Others think so, too.

Year after year, leading institutions choose to award Lennox for its innovative initiatives in product design which helps homeowners define what perfect air means to them. Below you’ll find a recognition this product has received.

Energy-saving comfort and efficiency

With efficiency ratings of 81% AFUE and 16.00 SEER, equivalent to 15.20 SEER2*, the LRP16GE is as efficient as it is versatile. So you can adjust your thermostat based on your comfort—not on your energy bills.

Breathe easy with healthier, cleaner air

A Healthy Climate® air purification accessory is available that helps make your home healthier by removing chemical vapors and odors from sources like cooking fumes, pets, cleaning supplies, paints and solvents, and carpeting and upholstery. It attacks these volatile organic compounds (VOCs) using a process called photocatalytic oxidation (PCO), which combines UVA light technology and a proprietary catalyst.

Comfort you can feel but not hear

Comfort you can feel but not hear

An internally mounted fan helps to keep operating sounds to a minimum, so you’ll hardly know the LRP16GE is running. 

Designed for durability and built to last

The LRP16GE is made from the highest quality materials to ensure season after season of reliable and efficient operation. Its rugged design also includes steel louvered coil protection for added durability.

Discreet, streamlined and simple to install

The LRP16GE has a compact footprint that allows for quick installation and blends in seamlessly with your outdoor environment.








Ratings & Reviews

See what other customers are saying about
LRP16GE Packaged Gas/Electric

5/5

June 29, 2023

4/5

May 04, 2023

5/5

April 12, 2023

Read More Reviews

Read Reviews

Get answers from a Lennox

® Dealer.

It’s easy to find an expert Lennox Dealer who can help you make the most of your HVAC system.

View Now

Get the answers you need from your preferred dealer:

AZ Air Cond & Heating

Go to my Dealer’s Page


Map data ©2022 Google

Terms of Use

Report a map error

Map data ©2022 Google

Resources


  • LRPG16GE Product Brochure



  • *
    Data is based on preliminary estimates. These numbers are subject to change.

California Only


This weatherized furnace does
not meet the South Coast Air Quality Management District (SCAQMD) Rule 1111 NOx emission limit
(14 ng/J) and cannot be installed in the SCAQMD.


If installed in San Joaquin Valley Air Pollution Control District (SJVAPCD) only: This weatherized furnace does not meet the SJVAPCD Rule
4905 NOx emission limit (14 ng/J), and thus is subject to a mitigation fee of up to $450.

Energy Star


Proper sizing and installation of equipment is critical to achieve optimal performance. Split system air
conditioners and heat pumps (excluding ductless systems) must be matched with appropriate coil components
to meet ENERGY STAR criteria. Ask your contractor for details or visit
www. energystar.gov.

Operating instructions for an oil heater

Instructions for operating a heater, especially an oil heater, exist. Rather, it is a set of rules that are important to follow. If you got a used device, first of all, carefully inspect it. The housing containing the mineral oil container must be intact. The same applies to the network cable. As a rule, the heater is connected to the mains with alternating current and voltage of 220-230 V.

Not all places can operate such a heating device. It is forbidden to turn it on:

  • in a room with an area of ​​less than 4 m 2 ;
  • in the bathroom, as well as next to washbasins, showers, pools;
  • directly below the socket.

Before connecting the heater to the mains, it must be placed on a flat, dry surface in a strictly vertical position – this requirement is especially important for oil appliances. Pay attention to how the cable is located – it should not come into contact with a heated surface. Otherwise, melting may occur, which will cause a short circuit.

After the heater has been moved from place to place, a “gurgle” may be heard when turned on. This phenomenon is quite normal and harmless, and does not mean at all that the device has boiled. This is explained by the fact that during heating, gas bubbles dissolved in it are squeezed out of mineral oil to the surface and burst.

Almost all instructions for using the heater say that it must not be used to dry clothes, or rather, it must not be covered with anything. This is due to the fact that if the device is still hung up, then the thermostat that monitors the temperature in the room begins to focus on the temperature that is set in this enclosed space.

As a result, it works and turns off the unit, and the air in the room remains cold. Even worse, when the thermostat is faulty, which may well be with a device that has already been previously operated. In this case, the oil is very hot and increases in volume. And this can lead to overheating and damage.

The oil heater works as follows. The electric coil, which is located in the oil container, heats up. She gives her heat to the oil, and it – to the body. As a result, the temperature on the surface of the instrument cannot exceed 150°C. Therefore, the risk of fire is minimized. Thanks to this device, the heater keeps the air in the apartment without much change – it does not burn dust or oxygen.

If your model has 2 or 3 power levels, then such a device consumes 1.5 kW or more. The presence of steps allows you to adjust the heat transfer: in a small room and with a slight cooling outside the window, the optimal mode will be at the lowest power, in a room with a large area or in severe frosts, it is rational to turn on the device to the maximum.

The thermostat is a heater element that allows you to maintain the desired temperature in the room. If it reaches the desired level, the device turns off. And it will start working again only when the air in the room cools down. And if your model also has a turn-on timer, then you can save energy: when leaving the house, set the minimum temperature, and set a comfortable one by the time you return.

An oil heater is a device that can work well without an owner. The main thing is that it is in good working order and operated according to the instructions.

Direct current in the house. Risks that no one notices / Habr

Direct current is gaining new frontiers in every home every day. It comes to someone with LED strips, to someone with DIY and Arduino. Time passes, and now, without fear or reproach, yesterday’s lovers begin to make powerful battery assemblies and power household appliances directly from solar panels. Behind the scenes remains the main nuance – security. After all, currents and voltages have grown along with toys, and almost no one thinks about the consequences …

There is a quiet revolution that almost no one notices – more and more household appliances are switching to direct current, and if before only motorists were faced with direct current and batteries, now it is rather difficult to find a house where there is not a single battery. As direct current penetrates more and more into houses, there are temptations to abandon alternating current circuits, for example, in lighting, laying slightly thicker cables and limiting themselves to LED lamps / tape (I will not hide, I had such a temptation, I just didn’t find it in its time of normal 12 V light bulbs at a good price). And on the LED strip, I generally have a lot tied up.

Video version:

You’d be surprised how many household appliances can run on direct current.

There was an excellent article on Habré, which addressed the issue of devices and direct current, but not security.

Brief list of appliances

Briefly all heating appliances will not notice the difference between direct and alternating current. These are heating elements of heaters, electric stoves, irons and so on.

Lighting will work incandescent and even LED bulbs with the right power supply.

The vast majority of other household appliances with commutator motors – meat grinders, hair dryers, vacuum cleaners and even washing machines.

But synchronous and asynchronous motors will not work. These are microwaves, air conditioners and refrigerators.

The old transformer power supplies will burn out, but the new, pulsed power supplies installed in most modern technology will survive completely. They may not be able to give out full power, but this is the second question.

It seems like a stone’s throw before transferring the whole house to direct current, because almost everything already works with us through power supplies and rectifiers.

And now it’s time to talk about the dangers that direct current carries with it, and which many do not know about or do not even want to know about.

With the falling price of solar panels, more and more people are using them for both entertainment and more practical purposes. “Savings must be economical” is the main slogan of the creators of DIY systems on solar panels, and “extra” parts are ruthlessly thrown out of the circuits, from the point of view of the creators, and there is a saving on materials.

If you missed this point, I’ll explain. In the standard scheme, solar panels generate direct current, which the solar inverter (it does not matter – micro / string) converts to alternating current and feeds it to the general grid.

The price of solar inverters is quite high, so I would say step-down devices (controllers) that work in conjunction with a solar panel – the so-called “solar inverter” (with proud letters MPPT on the box and without it in the middle) – the battery and that’s it this without switching to alternating current. To this controller, you can connect a voltage converter from 12/24/48 V to the usual 220V, if desired, or they are content with connecting phones, LEDs and other low-power DC devices.

The circuit is very simple, but all under-inverters have strong voltage / current limitations, and it’s so easy not to connect anything interesting and powerful to them from the loads.

They didn’t know how to get the maximum power from the panels, so amateurs simply throw them out of the circuit, like batteries.

The end result is to connect directly to the solar panels one of the devices capable of operating on direct current. Basically, now these are heating elements, electric stoves, etc. The problem is becoming widespread, and such solutions are already being sold with might and main.

Here we come to the main point – instead of a toy power supply, when connected, we sometimes had a spark, well, or there was smoke when connected incorrectly, DC sources capable of delivering 10, and now 17, fell into the hands of the DIY masses A. From them, sets for 50 – 230 V are boldly assembled and connected to a separate system, with a total power of 500 W to 2 + kW.

In my profile, I had to get to know direct current a little closer than many others, and I have something to say.

For switching DC circuits, the vast majority use the same switches or packets. When about 7 years ago, I wanted to switch my lighting to direct current, I didn’t think about it either.

And you need to think about it – when switching direct current, an arc discharge occurs, which does not go out every half a period, as in alternating current. Only a sufficiently large gap between the contacts can stop it. But even having provided a gap, we will get a temporary solution that will fail an order of magnitude earlier, because. it is impossible to completely get rid of the arc.

There are alternatives, and in general, those who get burned go to the next level of switching – using specialized switches.

or solid state relays.

Solid State Relays do not provide safety, but spec. switches are somewhat inconvenient for domestic use and still have a limited resource. Even by overcoming this stage, we remove only part of the problem.

Electric arcing in AC cables in domestic use is quite rare. You need to try to short-circuit the phase to zero or ground. Yes, and when shorting to the ground, the RCD will immediately work, and when shorted to zero, the machine will work. To deal with an alternating current arc with poor contact, there are also methods of struggle that have been run in time and arc protection devices are quite cheap and are sold in every electrical store.

In direct current, any break in contact immediately turns into an arc, and it does not go out very soon. Methods have begun to appear that can detect an arc in lines up to 200 m long. But the detection is not one hundred percent, and in a residential building it may not work at all, or give constant false positives due to the presence of various types of consumers.

But now no one puts these detectors into the home circuit, just like , many do not understand the basics of current sources, incl. solar panels , protecting the line with a simple machine .

Do not understand? I’ll try to explain. You have a stable current source, 20 A (solar panels). You put the fuses at 25 A, and the bag, at 25 A. You have a short circuit. Do you think the machine will work for you, or the fuse will burn? No, your house will burn down.

I have already described errors in the installation of solar power plants, and they are not uncommon there.

Data are given that direct current is not as dangerous to life as alternating current, especially at voltages up to 500 V.

Possibly.

But the problem is that the vast majority of conversions to direct current do not provide for a ground cable at all. Everything goes on a two-wire system. There is already an RCD for direct current, but who puts it.

And most crafts are aimed specifically at heating water, where electric shock can have the most sad consequences.

Please understand – direct current, even lower voltage, does not forgive mistakes.

There are ready-made solutions that have been tested by time. Put a normal inverter, and work with alternating current, for which the house usually already has protection. Do you value your life or property at $500?

Cheap controllers can’t take maximum power from solar panels and you lose 15-20% on that alone. With a direct connection, the losses increase even more, you have a simple resistive load.